Circus Mind Flashback #49: Goin' Down To New Orleans- Where Music Is KING!

Thu Jul 26, 10:58 PM by Mark Rechler

By DB

In May of 2003, the band embarked on a pilgrimage back to where it all began, New Orleans, to perform at Tipitina’s during Jazz Fest. Upon arriving at Louis Armstrong International Airport (where else would the airport be named after a founding godfather of JAZZ?), we headed straight for some absolutely righteous local fare at Mother’s. From there we headed into the street- where the one-two punch of the midday heat combined with the gumbo and fried oysters launched a buzz of positively psychedelic proportions. This all conspired to make what happened next seem as if it were from out of a dream.

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We happened upon a huge crowd of people milling about in the street: some of them were musicians carrying instruments, and others appeared to be Mardi Gras Indians in fully beaded and feathered regalia. We then noticed a long black horse-drawn carriage of ornate design (the back of which was encased in glass) pull up. It was driven by a fellow dressed formally in all black- including a tall black top-hat. And then it dawned on me… we had stumbled into a funeral procession forming. The doors to a church across the street opened and a lot of well dressed people began filing out. It wasn’t long before some men carrying a casket emerged and loaded it into the carriage. Someone showed me a picture (from the 60’s) of a man with a guitar, and told me he was the deceased, Earl King- a great local musician.

After a little while, the musicians (all brass and drums) stood in formation and launched into a mournful dirge as they began to walk slowly down the street. Some of the crowd followed- and soon the carriage fell in behind them, followed by more of the crowd. I joined in with the folks walking beside the carriage as if in a trance. The only thought stronger than the vague notion that I didn’t belong there, was a much deeper feeling that I did.

I looked up and saw some of my fellow band members. We saw Dr. John, looking dapper in a suit and jacket, walking with a cane. Nearby to him, we spotted Jon Cleary, Jon Gros of Papa Grows Funk, Henry Butler, and members of both The Rebirth Brass Band and The Soul Rebels. The pace of the parade picked up when the brass band kicked into a stream of up-tempo tunes. Most folks started dancing, and not for nothin’, but that procession was boogeyin’ down the boulevard…

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Our show the next night at Tipitina’s French Quarter was a blast! We shared the bill with Stanton Moore & More and PBS. A lot of our friends made it from far flung corners of the country. Cyril Neville and Leo Nocentelli who had played on our CD both sat in with us and our set was burnin’!

Flash forward a few days: we’re on our way out of the fairgrounds, having taken in a full few days of music at Jazz Fest. Our trip is nearly over and we’re about to go home to NY. We made one last stop at a tent where CD’s of New Orleans roots music were being sold. I looked at the rack, and the first thing I saw was a CD of Earl King’s music! I made the purchase and was not surprised to hear great music. Thanks, Earl- I’ll never forget you!